Makeup Inspirations

Guide to Colour Correctors

In How to... on June 16, 2010 at 12:00 am

Alabaster (White): Use to highlight and cover dark circles on pale warm skin tones. And a perfect cover up for very fair skin tones. Lightens darker foundations and is used to enhance features and highlight cheekbones. Use as a spot treatment for blemishes on pale skins.

Lavender (Violet or Lilac): Neutralizes yellow skin under-tones and sallow complexions for a healthy glow. Hides bruises and is used to cover the after effects of Plastic Surgery. Also will brighten up dull skin and olive skin tones. It corrects yellow bruising. May also be used as a finishing powder to brighten your complexion or as an eyeshadow or blush.

Mauve (Purple): Used to even out blue and black tones found in bruises, veins and under eye circles.

Mint (Green): for those with tanned and orange skins (covering acne scarring) and neutralizes redness, broken capillaries, acne and rosacea. Also used after laser and chemical peels to cover redness and covers redness from sunburn.

Pink: Highlights all skin tones. Perks up all yellow skin under-tones, sallow skin tones and tired complexions. Covers dark under eye circles and imperfections. Also covers up yellow bruising. And smoothes away fine lines, and covers blue veins. May also be used as a beautiful blush, highlighter shade or as an eyeshadow.

Apricot: Brightens dull and tired complexions. Also used to warm up olive or yellow complexions and their skin under-tones when used as a highlighter. May also be used as a finishing powder to brighten your complexion or as an eyeshadow or blush.

Blue: Corrects orange tones from sunless tanning products. Also works well as a finishing powder. Neutralizes under eye circles for ebony and dark brown complexions. May also be used as a finishing powder for a fresh look or as an eyeshadow.

Orange: Used to cover blue tones such as veins, dark circles and bruises on dark skin.

Yellow: Hides under eye circles, dark spots, bruising and purple blotches. Also adds warmer tones when mixed with cool toned foundations. Balances out the orange/red tones in light complexions.

Peach: Hides blue under eye circles. Also used to liven up overall skin tone and add a healthy glow. Balances out any slight discolorations to the skin.

Recommended for different skin tones:

Green for those with tanned and orange skins
(for covering scarring and bruises caused by acne
and patchiness to even out the skin tone.)

Blue for dark brown and ebony skins
(and those with the grey ashy appearance
of some Asian skins).

Lavender for those with yellow
undertones (apply to dark undereye circles).

Orange and Coral for applying to dark shadows
under the eyes on women from India and Pakistan.

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NOTE: I’ve orange/honey beige skin (Mac Studio Fix NC45/NC50), and I apply my correctors: green and lavender. 

And to stop the green having that shallow yellow appearance, although it does work for me to cover my acne quite well on my type of skin complexion, I use a bronzing face gel to counteract the loss of orange hue to my skin tone and I use the below method:

METHOD TO CORRECT SKIN TONE

1. Put on a thin layer of foundation to the face (I use NC5o during the summer and NC45 during the winter season) to give the corrector a base to work from.

2. Then use the corrector shade in: green (acne coverage) and lavender (for under-eye circles coverage).

3. Then I apply over the corrector, directly on those areas, my regular concealer stick for my shade colouring. Although optional, some use a face powder to set this all before going on to next stage. 

4. I then put on that final layer of foundation, as I would usually do to get the coverage that it provides to my face as a flawless finish.  Blending it at this stage only with a foundation sponge/brush gently by patting it on, that’s instead of swiping it on, so as not to take off much of the corrector and concealer products from underneath.

(At this stage, what is optional if using a liquid foundation; some prefer to to mix a liquid tan bronzer with the liquid foundation, to save time and an added step in the method.)

5. Now to stop my facial skin looking a shallow yellow and to put back some colour into my face, as the green corrector took out that natural orange hue and gave it more of the yellow, hence the shallow look.  Therein I use a Bronzing Face Gel, again by patting it on with a sponge so as not to remove any product from the facial area, then once its set, I blend with a foundation brush to buff it all together.  And i do this to put back that orange and which also acts as a seal to it all so the makeup doesn’t do a melt-down during the day.

6. Then continue with the rest of my makeup application for my facial skin of: blusher, contouring, and finishing powder with my makeup brushes.  

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Further Information: The Science of Colour Correction

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