Archive for the ‘Glam Look Critique’ Category
When I saw this advertisement whilst waiting in the Medical Health Centre, it was something that I just had to post here on my Modern Glamour blog and share; its from the ‘Vogue’ magazine issued November 2010, at first my daughter said “typical of you to reach for that one” in a tat-tsk-tat tossing eyes to the ceiling manner that she does so well, as I started to flick the pages over as something to read/browse through as we waited for our appointment time, and I said “can’t be helped as it was on the top of the pile” in a matter of fact way, as she thinks I’m a style-intellectual rather than being a fad-follower or modern-new-age trendsetter, as she knows I would have searched the pile of magazines until I’m came across something to my taste.
And yes, as I place the open palm of my left hand to my chest gently-like; in an expression of sincere honesty with a bowed head nod, my confessional is that I tore the above picture page advert from the magazine. For whilst I ripped out the page in a discreet way as possible my daughter hissed and said “I can’t believe you’ve just done that!” she stressed the word believe with emphasis whilst the rest of the sentence speech related her shock at my action. As its something I don’t usually succumb to and I replied in a nonchalant tone “yes, but how often do you see this in a magazine such as Vogue??!!”, as I folded it up and placed it into my coat pocket, for which my daughter replied to my explaination in the meantime “true” in a curt statement-y manner for she had gathered her composure by then, as we whispered to each other as the deed was done. Don’t worry, no text was lost from the other side of the page, just another advertisement which wasn’t relevant and there were plenty of other types such as ‘Heat’ and ‘Grazia’ magazines to chose from whilst waiting in the Medical Health Centre reception area for others to read.
And what caught my eye and also impressed my daughter too, was the use of not only the bold red lipstick which suits the bold framed glasses, thats a standard for those who wear heavier looking frames, whom know its a way to even-out the differentials, and to balance the face to be in proportion with each other and not contesting for a dominate position visually in the facial features.
All well and good, for what exactly caught our attention was four things: the eyebrows of each model, the eyes behind the spectacles giving different interpretions to how their worn with alot of makeup next to no little, along with the different skin tones of each model of differing ethnicity, and what the overall look would be but still using the same red lips and eye-glasses on each of the models. And I was also impressed by the variation of blush application and its placement, as its something I’ve still yet to master how to do it with proficiency I will admit.
For I did notice as well a new contouring and highlighting makeup concept for me to practice also, and that is the technique of putting the pale ‘highlighter’ shimmery shade, which is usually the chosen finish, rather than a pale matte concealer depending on cheekbone space, but I suppose either one will do for this; directly at the bottom of the eye glasses frame underneath, which is situated on the highest part of the cheekbone in a triangular shape; instead of the usual diagonal line struck across the cheeks above the blusher, which is a standard way of doing it when not wearing eye-glasses.
And I can see by the picture above that this new technique of triangular highlighting at the bottom end the glasses has been done to bring the eyes along with the frames forward more to enhance the whole face in synergy, that is instead of just only then concentrating on bring the eyes out (as to also hide under-eye bags and dark circles using concealer) to make the necessary 3-D effect of the makeup upon the facial feature, which was given this treatment due to being unintentionally affected largely because of the flat ornamentation of the glasses.
And this has been the first time I’ve seen this attitude given towards a modern glamour makeup look with eye-glasses being worn, which actually does what its suppose to do, that is, transformation even from an ordinary everyday face, that the differences are so subtle but it makes you want to take a second to learn something anew, and time again to appreciate the craft of makeup even more. Thank you for the inspiration.
Okay, I know that some people and Makeup Artists avoid using the round shaped face in their portfolio work, and most women with this type of face shape do the obvious when it comes to applying blusher, and are normally satisfied with putting it on the apples of the cheeks, or along their cheek bone…
Okay, it looks fine for an everyday look, and you could get away with this minimal blush application if you want to appear like a yummy-lovee, whose attractive as the girl next door type, but it isn’t exactly going to turn anyone’s head now is it? No.
But this is:
(Actress: Rani Mukherjee)
And the reason why is because the Makeup Artist has used the proper technique for applying blush to a round-faced female, of what I’d term cosmetically as the ‘Arch Blush Method’. Let me critique it for you:
The Makeup Artist has applied the blush from the temple to arch at her cheek bone, then continuing down with the blush in a semi-arch that fills that entire area of the cheek to the jawline, which ends in another soft arch shape at the beginning of her chin, and they used the lightest shade of blush for doing this.
But it doesn’t stop there.
They then followed by actually contouring the cheekbone in a darker shade of blush, in a short arched stroke from the hair sideburn position near the ears to the middle of the cheekbone, however the Makeup Artist of this work ensured that it didn’t run over the lightest shade of blush, but leaves about an inch spare above and on the side of the cheeks in the light blush that is still showing.
Overall effect: Perfection.
Also for further examples proceeding this is the makeup blush application using the exact same model in all five images to show the versatility of the round faced model.
Firstly with no blush applied although she still looks good because its based upon a take-me-serious concept, and in the second photograph she’s got on that blush application of a yummy-lovee that will do look, then in the third central picture, there’s the formal full-on-cheek-look to wear with glasses, and then the girl-next-door type makeup in the fourth photograph, and lastly a very modern glamourous makeup image made for seduction. All these uses of blush application on a single round faced woman, as seen in the visual photographs below as follows:
( Model: Doutzen Kroes )
On the top first which has no blush applied to the makeup look which can still be done for a neutral going-on-a-date look, and the second yummy-loveee makeup look solely on the cheekbone blush application still has a glamourous makeup look, although both are still suitable for the working office, with or without glasses as seen in the third photograph. Whilst below this on the left above is the standard blush application used for an everyday look which the round faced woman can do, for running errands around town as seen in the picture on the bottom left above. But to make it look glamourous and sexy, then the proper technique for a round face woman which can be applied that is so perfect for those evenings out which is shown in the picture on the bottom right directly above.
Now you all know that the round faced woman has these five options of blush application, and is the only type of face shape out of them all that can adjust and transform herself thus, as there is no “supposed to…” makeup rule for her blush application only the proper technique to suit the occasion need apply.
As when it comes to face blushing and being in the round its because her cheeks and its bone structure is the perfect blank canvas for blush application from basic, advanced and to experimental, and its one of her best features of her facial qualities that can be enhanced in so many different ways due to it being round that makes her glamourous and appealing to others who can’t help but turn and look her way….often.
It’s very rare for me to even like nude makeup looks of any kind, as I think that 9¾ times out of 1o, most women look bloody awful, no matter their skin tone, something never seems to look right (see below figure 1), most of the time its the lipstick gone awol, as it washes them out completely without even getting to the pale and interesting stage.
Those who attempt this look; be they amateur or professional, most don’t bother with a certain part of the cosmetic artistry, so it ends up askew with a warped overall look what-you-may-call-it theme going on, with overdone eyes of differing colours, here, there and in-between, then finished with an extreme washed-out nude lips of an unfamiliar shade, I think the lipstick was called ‘Eek’ because of the impression it created. Then they state that somehow its a ‘makeup rule’ to do it thata way. Who are they trying to convince?
Or they skip all of that completely and all we see is bare cheeks and nude lips. Note: this isn’t supposed to be about doing a ‘natural makeup’ look you know which starts and stays nearly bare. There. You see? No. What was I meant to be looking at?
Definition of Nude Modern Glamour Makeup:
An ethereal quality to the overall look, that in its detail, mutes down the tonal shade of a specific colour wheel family: brown, champagne, beige, chestnut, cashmere, mink, suede, taupe etc., and strips aways, peel after peel that tones range hence the term nude; to make bare by the viewing of the makeup look.
However, it should still suit the skin colouring and also there must be specific features of the face that are in multiple play from the nude colour spectrum of transfiguration that occurred in the process of stripping, because whats on display in makeup application when finished is the hues combined of that tonal shades colour, that was made nude for the presentation.
Therein a Nude Modern Glamour cosmetic artistry due to retaining its mystery, is so perfect for going on a date with a male to initiate attraction, as that’s the makeup’s message thats to be communicated — ethereal.
As the objective to the Modern Nude Glamour look should be an ‘ethereal’ concept to the cosmetic artistry, and that would then be perfect for that all important ‘Going on a Date Makeup Look’ that females want.
For this particular Makeup Artist has made an effort in the image of the actress Priyanka Chopra, in contouring the cheek area and in using the chosen colour shade of what suited her colouring best, and worked with that for all of her facial qualities; to bring all the features together from the similar tonal colour family as a key part of the Nude Modern Glamour look.
Thus herein lays that second key I believe, in achieving a nude makeup look: is that it has to have an added interest, this one in the image above being that of the eyeglasses as a focal point, and without the eyeglasses, it would still come down to the cheeks being the main focal point and not the secondary one.
All considered however, it all corresponds to make it a complete look, and not one that’s been left undone to gather dust.
Thank you for doing this nude makeup look, as it means I’ve still a little faith left in what it can do to a woman’s features. [Aside comment: her expressed * sigh of relief * could be heard from miles around….]
Lovely. Absolutely lovely. Spot on. Both have been well executed. The lips have around them some hightlighting on the edges, whilst the lipsticks of both shades have a hint of gold shimmer to them without looking too frosty.
The lipstick on the left would suit a woman who has a cool skin under-tone, whilst the one and the right would suit a woman with a warm skin undertone of any skin tone from pale to dark.
In addition to this, they are both good for the summer season, that is being, the lips on the left perfect for those summer evenings, whilst the lips on the right is great for a day-time summer look.
And this above lipstick look of full lips could be adjusted to suit different lip shapes, as there is no excuse whatsoever in not pulling this makeup look off well, and the shade colour of lipsticks would suit all lip tones due to being berry shades which is ideal for summer time, for example:
(Figure 1 – Badly applied blush
and the wrong shade)
One can always tell when blusher has been badly applied no matter how well trained the Makeup Artist, one would still expect better, and notice when its done well.
And the title of this post says it all. So here’s the explaination of my reason below:
In Figure 1, the model on the left blusher shade looks like its been applied by the paint by numbers method which makes her look harden. This model is heart shaped faced, so the blusher shade should have extended from her cheek to her temple without any break in the application of colour.
In Figure 2, whilst the model on the right has the same face shape of a heart, looks so elegant. Why, because of that gentle C-curve which the blusher brush took, that extended from the angle of her corner mouth and up towards the temple of her arched brows, that makes the blush seem most natural. Wonderful.
Therefore, I hope one realises now the importance of using the correct blusher technique for the required face shape, so no-one has to ask “are you alright dear, as you look a little off colour…” because if you choose the wrong blush hue or tone also, you will age your self and destroy all makeup application.
As the example of the model on the left (in figure 1) who has a warm undertone looks older with that ‘Terracotta’ brown blush and looks over-baked due to that added warm colour that she didn’t need at all, she would’ve been better off with a cool-toned shade; a red wine hue to contour the hollows of her cheeks, then a strawberry colour on the apple of her cheeks and highlighted peach on her cheekbones, and that would have resulted in matching with the same healthy glow from applied blush in a gradient effect, as clearly the model on the right (in figure 2) who has a cool undertone who’s wearing that same ‘Terracotta’ brown blush shade that look so so wrong with the model on the left, however she looks wonderful for it; after having been warmed up by that specific colour as she so needed it justifiable.
In short, if the right technique and the correct blusher shade for the skintone isn’t adhered to, the only thing that will stand out is your mis-use of blush.
Although this look was professionally carried out and it had possibilities, the blush and lips colour of ginger/coral orange on the lips and cheeks of the model seems to be out of sync with the pink/coral eye makeup. Therefore the whole makeup look seems off balance, and not quite right, thus it didn’t work well as a modern glamour look.
The eye makeup needed to have been more translucent in the finishing and with not so much of the pink showing as it looks to harsh in the inner corner of her eyes and distracts. It should have been an apricot or peach colour that was used there instead, which if this was adjusted it would have been an improvement to pull this off well.
Then it would have been a match made in heaven…